Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Torrontes: the other white grape

I've only tasted Torrontes once prior to tonight, at Town Hall restaurant in SOMA (San Francisco). But even from the small tasting I split with my fellow diners before ultimately settling for a Sauv Blanc (how safe and typical of us!), the varietal made an impact on me. Mostly because it was like nothing I had ever tasted before. I'm in the beginning stages of developing and refining my palate, so as an "amateur taster" it's really easy for me to compare varietals (ie: this tastes like a less-tangy cab, or a flavorful pinot). But what I've tasted of Torrontes cannot be compared. 

Tonight, I had the privilege of enjoying a few glasses of an Argentine Torrontes, Elsa Bianchi 2008. As with the one I tasted a few months ago, it was peachy and sweet on the nose, like a late-harvest, a Reisling, or a Gewurstraminer (there i go with comparing varietals), BUT the flavor was surprising and impossible to compare. It saturated my palate as it rolled over my tongue. I got the sweet tree fruit flavors that I smelled, but the finish was quick and tart and did NOT leave me regretting sipping it (like many sweet wines often do). Instead, it invited me in for more. This wine was very well-balanced in and of itself (wet enough to coat the tongue and leave you satisfied, but tangy enough to entice and cleanse the palate). 

Pairing: Not too sure. We drank it through our meal, from appetizer through dessert. To start we ate a watermelon salad with goat cheese and mixed green with balsamic vinegrette. I think it paired well with this, because the sweetness sort of merged with the watermelon sweetness (did not clash) and the goat cheese provided some musky tang to contrast with the fruit of the wine. The balsamic perhaps clashed a little for me, but it wasn't really a big deal.

Main course: we had chicken with spices like garlic, onion, cumin, salt, pepper, etc. paired with avocado/corn/black bean salsa and Israeli couscous. I think it went just fine. I wouldn't say it was a "match made in Heaven" but the smooth roundness of the wine seemed to escort all those different flavors quick well. It matched the sweetness in the corn and the savory pungent flavors of cumin and the like just fine. I think the ripe fruit and crisp finish even might have done something for the comforting starchy flavors of the Israeli couscous.

Dessert: angel food cake with blackberry and blue berry compote. Side note: this dessert was "purple" and "gold" colored to honor the Lakers, even in their defeat. They'll get 'em in games 4 and 5. Anyway, that said,  I actually didn't really taste the two together. Anyone have an opinion on these flavors? Feel free to comment.

Long story short: Go Torrontes! There have been so many times when I'm craving something in a white that's more substantial and will satiate my thirst for a juicy, but refreshing and crisp, libation without bogging me down with too much oak or sweetness. Thank you, Torrontes, and thank you Argentina for making some great wines from this grape at a great price! ($9.99, Elsa Bianchi 2008 Torrontes)

2 comments:

  1. This was my first Torrentes, and I loved it! Very drinkable, great personality... as they say, "Malbec's sexy new girlfriend!". I think I finished mine all up by the time we got around to dessert... will have to try it again next time!

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  2. yes. i agree. and for $10 or whatever, why not! i'd be interested to learn more about the aging methods (oak? new? old? etc) and try various renditions of that varietal.

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